Caliche & Pao

After exploring the many galleries on Royal Street, I walked into one gallery and I immediately knew that I would be writing this blog post about it. This gallery was bright, colorful, and it smelled of wet paint. The gallery belonged to two artists known as Caliche and Pao. They are husband and wife, and they create some of the most unique pieces of art that I have ever seen. There was not very much information about these two artists. Caliche was born in Bogota, Columbia, and he is inspired by his childhood in Columbia as well as his many years he has spent in New Orleans. He paints French Quarter lampposts playing jazz instruments, and his own versions of New Orleans architecture. Pao is Caliche's wife, and she was born in Montevideo, Uruguay. She attended a fine arts school in Venezuela, and her first pieces of art were inspired by her culture and Italian heritage. She is now inspired by the city of New Orleans, specifically the architecture in the French Quarter. She was drawn to New Orleans, and she paints the landscape, flowers, and architecture seen in the French Quarter of the city.

Their pieces of art have been described as "whimsical" and I think that is the perfect word for it. Their work is bright and colorful. The reason why the gallery smelled of wet paint is because the paint on the canvas' was very thick in some spots. The paint was thick on the flowers hanging from the balcony, bushes, and leaves of the trees. There were even "Wet Paint. Do Not Touch" signs hanging through the gallery. Below is a photograph of the same photograph of the house above, but from the side. You can see the paint sticking out from the bushes and the flowers on the balcony. It is a little difficult to tell, but this was sticking out from the canvas almost a half of an inch. The paint was also thicker in other strokes on the canvas, but never as thick as the leaves on the trees, bushes, or flowers hanging from the balcony. This gave the painting an amazing 3D effect. Nearly all of their painting were painted using some odd curves and angles. I believe that the reason for this is to add to the 3D effect. The paintings are detailed, and it looks like there was care taken in each stroke of paint.

I am drawn the work done by these artists for a few different reasons. The reason why I walked into this specific gallery was the bright colors. Every single piece of art in that gallery was bright and colorful. I then noticed the leaves on the trees, the bushes, and the flowers on the balconies sticking out from the painting. This just struck me as so unique, and I feel like it requires a lot of talent to pull off that 3D effect. The next aspect that drew me to this art is the whimsical look of the art itself. It looks fun and lively. The lampposts are playing different instruments, and the buildings are curved and lit up with a warm glow. I enjoyed looking at each and every painting, and noticing each stroke of paint.
These pieces of art actually gave me a feeling of happiness. They made me appreciate New Orleans even more by portraying the architecture in such a fun and wonderful way. Also, seeing the lampposts drawn playing instruments as if they were people made me appreciative of the music that is everywhere in the city. It is as if each lamppost in the city is playing music because music is all around you in New Orleans.
I believe the story that this art tells is the story of New Orleans. People are drawn to New Orleans for many different reasons, such as art, music, architecture, partying, and many other reasons. The artists themselves came from different countries across the globe because they were drawn to this city. I believe they are trying to express all of the aspects of New Orleans into pieces of art. Perhaps the art that they create is how they perceive the city, and they paint the aspects of the city that they are most appreciative of. By painting the architecture and landscape in the way that they do, I believe it shows the love that these two artists have for New Orleans. Since their art has become popular, I believe many people inside and outside of New Orleans share the same love for this city.

I like the story that this art tells because I love the passion that people have for New Orleans. It is refreshing to me because nearly everyone from Peoria says that they cannot wait to leave Peoria or Illinois all together. In New Orleans, people do not want to leave, and they are proud of the city that they live in. While walking through the French Quarter I heard musicians playing for tips on the street say "Welcome to my city!" with pride in their voice. I feel as if that is something you do not hear very often in major cities, especially from those who may possibly make their living playing for tips.
This art spoke to me because it captured my favorite aspects of the city. First, I love the architecture in the French Quarter of New Orleans. The history of the city speaks through its architecture, and it seems like there is an interesting history behind every building in the French Quarter. Second, I enjoy the music of New Orleans, and it seemed like there was music all around you all the time. I thought it was very creative and interesting to portray the lampposts as musicians playing different instruments. Last, I love all of the different kinds of art in New Orleans. This style of painting is very interesting to me, and I appreciate the time and skill it took to create each one of these pieces.

Reflection of the Trip

I know I was a little behind on some of my blogs, but my favorite part of the class was blogging every day. I enjoyed this because it made me sit down and think about my day and reflect about what I learned about the city and myself. I learn from writing things down, and I believe I will remember this trip and the impact it had on me better because I blogged about it.
It is honestly really difficult for me to decide what my favorite part of the trip was. I loved walking around the city in general and taking in the sights, but if I had to choose one event from the trip that was my favorite it would have to the art market on Frenchmen Street. I know this was not a huge event for the trip, but I had a really great time that night. What made it my favorite part of the trip was the people. I bought several pieces of art at the market, and I talked to each of the artists about their work. They were all so kind, and they were so happy to share information about their art with us. I am not an artsy person at all, but I loved talking to all of the local artists about what inspired them to create their work. Also, there were no time restraints and the rest of the night we had free to do whatever we pleased, so it was a relaxing way to spend the evening. The Pharmacy Museum tour is a close second to the art market, but you can not beat talking to the locals and looking at fantastic pieces of art. I wish I would have taken pictures of the art market, but I was too busy talking to people and enjoying the art around me.

Prints I bought from the Art Market

I know I put this is another post, but here it is again because I like it so much.

What I learned about the people of New Orleans is they are all unique in background and personality, but what connects them is a love for their city. Also, I found that almost everyone I came into contact with in New Orleans was very helpful and kind. I noticed that generally everyone seemed happy, and in many of the restaurants I went into there were people singing.
What I learned about myself is I am able to travel away from home by myself and be outside of my comfort zone and thrive from it. As I said from an earlier post, New Orleans is the farthest I have been away from home without an immediate family member with me. I suffer from severe anxiety, and even though it is mostly under control now, I still occasionally have episodes of panic. My family is very important to me, and they are my rock, so to speak. So for me to be away from my home, family, and everything that is comfortable to me for a week and have an amazing time is an achievement for me. I also learned that I still have so much left to learn about the way people live, and I still have so much left of the world to see and understand.
Rarely do I take pictures of myself, but here are a few to show me just being goofy and having fun on this trip. I miss it already!

Farewell to New Orleans

 

I enjoyed every part of the French Quarter that we visited, but my favorite place was Jackson Square. I am sure many other people will choose this as their favorite spot, and it is really touristy, but it was definitely my favorite place. There are many reasons why I chose this as my favorite spot. First, it is simply beautiful. The St. Louis Cathedral, the Presbytere, and the Cabildo are structures that were designed with such fine details. With the cathedral in the middle and the Presbytere and Cabildo on each side of it, it creates symmetry that is very pleasing to the eyes. The grounds in the middle of the square are well kept, and the fountain adds to the beauty of it all. The next reason why Jackson Square is my favorite spot is because of the atmosphere and the people. There is usually always music being played, either by someone playing an instrument, out of a speaker, or even both. The tarot and palm readers also add to the atmosphere. Part of me wanted to believe that they were the real deal, so it gave a sense of magic and mystery. Lastly, I cannot forget the artists. The artists were all very kind, and the art hanging on the fence surrounding the center of the square was always intriguing. Every artist's style was unique, and it was awesome to talk to them about their work.
I will miss Jackson Square and all of New Orleans very much. I hope to be back, and I would absolutely love to be married down in New Orleans. There is something about the French Quarter that feels magical, whether it be the music, art, buildings, food people, or every one of those things put together. I have already been telling people to visit New Orleans someday. I even told my cousin and my boyfriend that I want to come back down to New Orleans with them because I know they would love it just as much as I do.

Art in Jackson Square

I would describe New Orleans to someone who wants to visit as somewhere unlike any other place in the United States. To me, it had a more European feel than what you would picture a major city in the United States to be. I have been trying to describe my experiences to my family, but the best way to explain it to them is through the pictures that I took. The small streets, the smaller buildings in the French Quarter, the music, the art, and practically everything else in the French Quarter is something that you must experience and see to believe that this place exists in the United States. I would recommend New Orleans to anyone who has the slightest interest in history. New Orleans predates the United States, so the history there is fascinating. There is something in New Orleans for everyone. Whether is be food, music, art, history, haunting, architecture, or drinking, New Orleans has it all. And, to top it all off, there are friendly people there every step of the way.

The Gumbo that is New Orleans

During our three hour tour, I again realized how many cultures and people contributed to what New Orleans is today. Milton described New Orleans as a gumbo, and I am fairly certain I heard another tour guide say the same thing. I believe what they mean by this is, like an gumbo, New Orleans is a mixture of different things and the end product just somehow works, and it works perfectly. I believe that it is absolutely true. We were even told that in the city of New Orleans, a German bakery makes a lot of the French bread. At first, I thought it was mainly Spanish, French, and African people, but there are many different Europeans in New Orleans that came over when the city was first being populated. This includes German, Italian, and Irish, which was surprising to me because when you think of New Orleans you mainly think of the French.
Something that I was unaware of before arriving in New Orleans is the crazy amount of firsts. New Orleans had the first opera, the first cocktail, first pharmacist, first movie theater, and many others. It seemed as if during every tour, especially this three hour tour, there was a multitude of firsts mentioned.
Another interesting fact I learned while in the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, was Protestants had their own section of mausoleums towards the back corner of the cemetery. This is because the cemetery is a Catholic cemetery, and they felt the need to separate the Protestants from the Catholics, even in death. It was amazing to me that in a city that had the most free people of color, and women had more rights than anywhere else during that time period, they still separated people according to their religion. Even when Protestants and Catholics both believe in the same God, and mostly the same principles because they are both Christian faiths.

It felt like we were only in Congo Square for a short time, but it was definitely one of my favorite parts of the tour. While standing in the square, I could almost see in my mind's eye the gathering of many enslaved Africans singing, drumming, and dancing. It was amazing to me that they could raise money to escape slavery by selling and trading goods. This was also the birthplace of music as we know it today, at least that is what was said to us by Milton. Creole folk music was developed in Congo Square, and the rhythm of this music is what inspired Jazz music. Jazz inspires the blues, the blues inspired rock and roll and hip hop, and so on and so forth. So, in a way, Congo Square is one of the places, if not the place, where music as we know it in America today started. This is extremely interesting to me because I have always been a lover of music, and to see the place that inspired Jazz, and subsequently other genres of music, is incredible.

Picture displayed in Congo Square

Three Hour Tour

We began our three hour walking tour of the city on top of the stairs overlooking Jackson Square at around eight in the morning. We were all bundled up, and most of us had hot chocolate or coffee from Cafe Du Monde. It was a bitterly cold day, but standing in the sun helped. Milton, our tour guide, had a loud, deep voice, and he did not stumble once over dates or events in New Orleans. He spoke with confidence, and he had a good sense of humor as well.
My favorite part of the tour had to be the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. The cemetery was surrounded by a concrete wall, and I discovered that bodies were in the wall. This was once a way of temporarily storing the bodies, but it became a permanent resting place for many. The cemetery was a mix of mausoleums that were in perfect condition, and some that were falling apart such as the one pictured below.

 

Graves in the wall of the cemetery

 In New Orleans, these cemeteries are called cities of the dead. This is because the graves are decorated in a way that resembles buildings in New Orleans. Many graves have iron fences on the front of them that resemble the galleries and balconies on the buildings in the French Quarter. Many of the graves also have roofs that are resemble these buildings as well. Another reason why these cemeteries are called cities of the dead is because the above ground graves are pretty densely packed together, like it is in the city. Lastly, there are multiple bodies in a single grave, and they have different heights.

One of the most interesting above ground graves in the cemetery is the grave of Marie Laveau, also known as the voodoo queen. There are three different places where she may be buried, but most believe that she is in the mausoleum that the rest of her family's bodies are. Milton explained to us that some people believe that if you draw three X's on Marie Laveau's grave and wish for something, you invoke the spirit of Marie Laveau to make it come true. If the wish did come true, people would come back and circle the three X's that they drew. Unfortunately, this had led to extreme vandalism to Marie Laveau's grave. They have since attempted to cover these marks, but as shown below, people still get into the cemetery to make a wish at her grave.

Marie Laveau's Grave

Circled X's drawn on after it was repainted.

We ended our tour at the historic Congo Square within Louis Armstrong Park. This spot was considered sacred ground by the Indians before the arrival of the French. When the French arrived with slaves, the slaves would gather here and sell and trade goods in order to buy their freedom. This spot is most famous for the gatherings of enslaved Africans who would sing, dance, drum, and sell and trade on Sunday afternoons. These gatherings would involve as many as 600 people. This square is surrounded by unique tress that are hundreds of years old.

On My Own in New Orleans

Exploring the city on my own was an entirely different experience from the tours and traveling together as a class. I enjoyed the freedom of being able to take as long as I liked, and I was able to see the city in a new light. Don't get me wrong I love the walking tours and the museums, but since there is so much to see and do, I have felt a little rushed the first few days. Also I am pretty introverted, so it was nice to be able to recharge by myself for a while.
Being out on my own, I found that I was less shy and more adventurous. When touring the Museum of Death I asked the curator many questions, and I actually had a fairly long conversation with him about the collection at the museum. This is something that I would not have done with my whole class nearby, and I am not sure why. I am just more comfortable by myself or with someone I have known for awhile, like Karissa. Also, I have found that most people in New Orleans are very kind and willing to answer questions or just talk to me because I am a tourist.
I really enjoyed just wandering the French Quarter with nowhere to be and no limiting factors, especially Royal Street. I have never been a very artsy person myself, but I appreciate art and the skill it takes to make art. I will admit that I often do not understand art, but that makes it all the more interesting to research what inspired the artist. An excellent example of this is an artist by the name of George Rodrigue. I did not understand what the big deal was about the blue dog. It is a fairly simple painting, but it became immensely popular and well known. Again, I was talking the ear off of someone who was working in the gallery and had a few of my questions answered. I admitted to her that I found the image of the blue dog to be slightly unsettling due to the red or yellow eyes, but at the same time I began to understand the significance of the paintings.

From Tarot Card Readings to Pizza

Today we were able to explore the city completely on our own. I decided to do a few things that I wanted to do, but then I also wanted to relax for a part of the day. Karissa, Edi, and I departed from the hotel around 11:30 in the morning for the streetcar station. We took the streetcar to Toulouse Street, and we made our way to Jackson Square. We stopped at the first tarot card and palm reader we saw, and yes there were multiple readers there with tables set up despite the cold weather. She was an older woman with several teeth missing from her bottom row. On her table sat a fake skull, a pillar stand for a candle, tarot cards, three rocks with crystals inside them, and a pack of cigarettes. I pulled up a blue lawn chair that was missing an arm on my left side and watched as my two friends got their tarot cards read. I noticed that the woman would not make much eye contact with them, and her nose was running from the cold. When it was my turn to have my tarot cards read I moved to the chair in front of the woman. I was told to shuffle the cards and then hand them back to her. She split the deck into three piles, and she proceeded to read my cards one by one. According to her reading, in the next six months I am going to be betrayed by someone, but it is not going to be a friend or a family member. Although, the betrayer will fail because everything else in my life is seemingly perfect according to the cards.

My Tarot cards

The next destination for our group was a restaurant called Mother's. When we first arrived in New Orleans we asked our Uber driver where the best place to get "homemade southern cookin'" was, and he told us we had to go to Mother's. When we arrived it was packed with people. We stood in line to order our food and pay. We were given our receipts and went to find a table. There were three large rooms, and nearly every table was taken. Once we found a table in the back corner of the restaurant, a very kind man came up to us and took our receipts. It was a very different process of getting food than what I am used to. The food was absolutely amazing. I ordered red beans and rice with ham, green beans with tomatoes, and potato salad. It sounds like it would be a fairly bland meal, but it was full of flavor. It was the ultimate comfort food.

My meal from Mother's.

Next, Karissa and I went to the Museum of Death. Now, I am trying to think of a way to explain this museum without sounding like someone who is completely insane. Basically, the Museum of Death is everything to do with death. It was morbid, but fascinating. The biggest exhibit they had had to do with serial killers, such as Ted Bundy, John Wayne Gacy, etc. They even had an original piece of art by John Wayne Gacy as Pogo the clown. Unfortunately I was unable to take pictures of the inside of the museum.
After the Museum of Death, we made our way to Royal Street. This was my favorite part of the day because of the beautiful artwork we saw in the galleries. It was freezing on the street, but the galleries were nice and warm. I will save my favorite artists and artwork for my future art post. Seeing original paintings up close was interesting because I could really see the brush strokes and style of the artist. Also, I noticed beautiful buildings with galleries on Royal Street that I had to photograph.

Building on Royal Street

One of the more interesting paintings I saw in a gallery on Royal Street

After Royal Street we started to make our way back to the streetcar station to head back to the hotel. On the way I made an impromptu stop in The Fudgery. I could smell the fudge from all the way down the street and it pulled me into the store. I ordered a cookies and cream milkshake, despite the cold temperate outside.
Once we were back at the hotel we decided to stay in for the night. It was so cold out, and we wanted to work on our blog posts, travel guides, and watch Friends. We ordered Pizza from Angeli on Decatur, and it was some of the best pizza I have ever had. The sauce was slightly spicy, the crust was thin but not too thin, soft but not soggy, and the pepperoni added just the right amount of flavor. Overall, it was a really great day.